Life on a Bus

Published in El Pais
(Spain) on 3 June 2014
by Valeria Luiselli (link to originallink to original)
Translated from by Sean P. Hunter. Edited by Laurence Bouvard.
Madrid's buses, if I remember correctly, are always full of adorable but fierce elderly people with a firm calling for complaining. Not very different, the Havana buses function like rowdy neighborhood meetings where he who gets the last word is the one who vociferates most. In Mexico, the minibuses are stuffed full and sweltering hot, almost always silent, save for the cumbia music that the radio regurgitates, where students feign dejection in order not to yield space to anyone and old people gaze through the windows with resigned sadness. In New York, on the other hand, the buses are mobile mental hospitals where the crazies of the city arrange dates. In some of my morning routes, I have counted up to seven absolutely crazy but functional people on the same bus.

My last route should have been the most cathartic. Monday, 8:30: A woman of about 70 — wearing slippers with socks, baseball cap on backwards — suddenly stood up and, as if directing an imaginary orchestra, began to swing her arms and sing "Ob-la-di Ob-la-da" at the top of her lungs. After some smiles and skeptical whispers, one by one, we passengers began to liven up. All of us except the driver ended up joining in the chorus. In a city where no one drinks on the balcony anymore before six o'clock in the afternoon, or smokes in the park, or extends after-dinner conversations past a dessert and a cup of weak American coffee, the New York buses are perhaps the last retreat on the margin of public conduct norms.

It's as if their movement, slow and wormy, placed them outside the speed of progress, far from the nets of vigilance, separated from normal discussion and la la la ... life goes on.


Los autobuses de Madrid, si recuerdo con precisión, van siempre llenos de adorables pero feroces miembros de la tercera edad con una firme vocación para la queja. No muy distintas, las guaguas habaneras funcionan como alborotadas juntas vecinales, donde tiene la última palabra el que vocifera más fuerte. En México, los peseros son abarrotados bochornos, casi siempre silenciosos –salvo por las cumbias que regurgita la radio–, donde estudiantes fingen abatimiento para no cederle el lugar a nadie y los viejos miran con resignada tristeza por la ventana. En Nueva York, en cambio, los buses son el manicomio móvil en donde se dan cita los locos de la ciudad. En alguno de mis trayectos matutinos he llegado a contar hasta siete –siete locos absolutos, pero bastante funcionales en un mismo bus.

Mi último trayecto debe haber sido el más catártico. Lunes, 8.30: una señora de unos setenta años –chancletas con calcetines, gorra de béisbol volteada– se puso repentinamente de pie y, como dirigiendo una orquesta imaginaria, empezó a batir los brazos y a cantar “obladí-obladá” a todo pulmón. Después de algunas risas y susurros escépticos, uno a uno, los pasajeros nos fuimos animando. Terminamos todos –salvo el chófer, tal vez– sumándonos al coro. En una ciudad en la que ya no se bebe en las terrazas antes de la seis de la tarde, ni se puede fumar en los parques, ni se extienden las sobremesas más allá de un postre y un insípido café americano, los autobuses de Nueva York son quizá el último rincón al margen de las normas de conducta pública. Es como si su movilidad –lenta, agusanada– los colocara fuera de la velocidad del progreso, lejos de las redes de vigilancia, apartados del discurso normalizador, and lalalala life goes on.
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